Reflections on a Visit to Pont du Gard
On a recent
study trip in Europe I visited the Pont du Gard. It is a UNESCO world heritage site. Fittingly, the visit provoked thoughts about
world history.
In the first century, when the
Christian movement was just beginning, the Romans built an aqueduct to bring
water from a mountain spring to a “colony” town called Nemausus (Nimes) in what is now southern France. The uneven terrain of the region required a
winding route for the system, more than 31 miles, digging through hillsides and
leveling out depressions, so that the water could flow downhill all the
way. The aqueduct had to cross a river
valley (the Gardon River), so the engineers built a bridge, consisting of three
tiers of arches, and the water flowed in a covered canal on the top.
The Pont du
Gard and its bridge are a marvel of precision.
The canal on top of the bridge descends about 1 inch, a gradient of 1 to
18,241. The 31-mile aqueduct descends 41
feet over its whole length. Once
completed, this gravity-glow system provided Nimes with water for baths,
drinking, and fountains. And the system
worked, with little maintenance, for four or five centuries. (Would your city’s water system last that
long?)
But even
Roman engineering breaks down with no
maintenance. The empire fell to invading
Goths, Visigoths, and other barbarians.
Without periodic cleaning, mineral buildup clogged the aqueduct and the
water ceased. For more than 1000 years, Nimes,
like other medieval cities, depended on wells or local streams for water. In medieval times, cities often had higher
rates of disease than the countryside, because concentrated populations
depended on limited or polluted water sources.
Many Roman
structures were destroyed by people who picked them apart, one massive stone at
a time, as resources for other projects.
The Pont du Gard, though it no longer carried water, continued to serve
as a bridge over the Gardon valley.
Medieval lords could charge tolls for wagons and horse traffic, so they
protected the structure from looters. In
the last two centuries, governments have taken care to protect it as a tourist
destination.
What did
medieval people think when they looked at the Pont du Gard? Century after century, it stood there, 160’
high and hundred more than 1000’ long, a massive and beautiful structure, far
beyond the ability of any living man to design or any lord to finance. Most likely, they knew that it once carried
water, but probably none of them had any understanding of how precisely it had
been built. We cannot see inside their
minds, but we imagine they felt some awe at the knowledge of the ancients.
The world’s
literature has many examples of the myth
of the golden age. The Greeks gave
us the lost city of Atlantis, the Hebrews told the story of Babel, the
Babylonians told of kings who lived for thousands of years, and there are
similar stories in other cultures. Common
to such stories is the idea that our distant ancestors were greater than we
are—richer, smarter, longer-lived, and/or more holy.
It’s one
thing to tell a story of the golden age.
It’s something else to see proof standing like the Pont du Gard over a
river valley. For more than a thousand
years Europeans could see—not just at Pont du Gard but also at other
sites—clear evidence that Roman material culture surpassed anything they could
build. The richest noble in his castle
in 950 or 1250 lived much less comfortably than upper class Romans of the first
century. (Besides baths and fountains,
the Romans built houses with heated floors—in Britain!) Reflecting on the Pont du Gard and other such
structures, Europeans knew there really had been a lost age, an age when people
knew more than they did.
We can
suppose that belief in the lost age was part of a medieval worldview. But not in the modern world! The recovery of ancient texts, the discovery
of the new world, and especially the development of modern science brought a
new idea, fundamental to the modern worldview, the idea of progress. It’s not that we are smarter than our
forebears, but we build on their accomplishments. So we know more than any previous
generation. In the future we will learn
even more, so human progress is potentially unlimited.
To get a sense of the confidence of
a modern worldview, try the novels of Jules Verne, e.g. Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. The height of modern confidence in progress
probably came in the 19th century.
Science and technology had produced railroads, telegraphs, electric
lights, steamships, and inoculations and other ways to fight disease. With the birth of scientific psychology and
sociology, humanity could expect progress on “spiritual” problems as well.
The 20th century was not
kind to the modern belief in progress.
People continued to make scientific discoveries and develop new technologies,
but the uses of our technologies frighten us: nuclear and biological weapons,
pollution of land and sea, totalitarian use of communication, eugenics, global
climate change, and others. Is it
possible that people will come to look back on a lost age, an age when our
ancestors did not know what we know
or do what we can do, as better than ours?
Post-apocalyptic science fiction
imagines a world like that of medieval Europeans. A classic example is A Canticle for Leibowitz, by Walter Miller, a story of monks living
in a post-nuclear war world. That’s not
the sort of story I have in mind.
Post-apocalypse stories parallel the medieval experience; in such
stories, the ancients are envied because of their knowledge and power, knowledge
and power we no longer have. I have in
mind the opposite, where the ancients are envied for their ignorance and lack
of power.
Philosophy has always said that
knowledge is a good thing. The
post-modern idea that knowledge may be dangerous or bad is philosophically
revolutionary. Without wisdom,
technology merely provides power. So
some philosophers of the 20th century (Jacques Ellul, for example)
turned their attention to the dangers of technology. In the 21st century, with
technological power in the hands of terrorists or tyrants, we face horrible
possibilities. Global climate change
confronts us with not possibility but virtual certainty of hardships.
The Pont du Gard is a beautiful
bridge. It stands as a reminder that
engineering can make good things, things that improve human life. It also symbolizes a lost world, a world lost
through the loss of knowledge. We stand
at a time when we may long for a lost world, a world lost by the acquisition of
knowledge.